The qualities of Tulsi, the holy Basil, which occupies a special place among Indian medicinal herbs, is inscribed on the exterior glass walls of a restaurant of the same name which is located near the Grand Central Terminal on 46th street in Midtown Manhattan between 2nd and 3rd Avenues. Tulsi celebrates the variety and richness of Indian cuisine in many ways while catering to the palates of New Yorkers working at the nearby United Nations as well as the tourists.
Welcomed by a smiling staff waiting in the tastefully decorated seating area, I entered Tulsi where a brightly lit bar displayed numerous bottles of a wine, beer and other spirits. The interior was luxuriously decorated in green and white colors with lightly colored curtains separating a number of cubicles meant to provide privacy to customers under crystal chandeliers.
Prakash Bhat, the bartender, immediately met us flashing a broad smile to enquire about our drinking habits. After a brief conversation he retreated back to his working area where he mixed the drinks with names like, ‘Indian Sumer’, a mixture of gin, lichi juice and vodka. He presented an equally colorful virgin drink with no alcohol in it. Bhat displayed his knowledge of wine, beer and cocktails intelligently as he served to customers.
“I have worked in the food industry for 30 years”, Bhat declared, adding that he had many opportunities to work with knowledgeable people in the industry before landing at Tulsi as a bar tender.
Soon other members of the staff dropped by our tables to introduce themselves and returned to their stations. One of them was Suneel, the handsomely dressed restaurant manage who helped us with the menu before Chef Hemant Mathur, the owner and chef, appeared on the scene. I recognized the spot where Chef Sanjeev Kapoor of Khana Khajana fame, the well-known television personality sat a couple of years ago and sample tasted dishes proudly presented by Chef Mathur.
Mathur's original and powerful creations are well known. The lingering flavor of dishes prepared by him leave strong imprints on customers’ mind. His presentations are equally impressive, served in uniquely carved serving plates.
As soon as we took a few sips of our drinks, Chef Hemant appeared with his signature appetizers. A group of well-decorated dishes were laid on our table, which included Lamb Galuti, Ragdaa Chaat, Tandoori Paneer (splashed with green chutney) and Manchurian Cauliflower, all of which had their own flavors. Manchurian cauliflower was magical: spiced with sweet undertone and flavored with basil yogurt. Chef Dhondu Ram, Mathur’s partner and associate presented his own creation: crisp juicy shrimp dipped in spicy curry. The dishes were matched with fried okra with chutney.
Hemant’s famous Tandoor-Grilled Lamb Chops ($30) is served with cumin potatoes and cranberry chutney. Lovers of lamb vouch for its superiority. Recently, Hemant introduced a two-course Lunch menu for $20, which he said was popular among the working people who preferred upscale food for take-outs. It includes chaat or soup or salad, Kati Roll or choice of any entrée (with half portion served with Naan).
We were served Spinach and Corn Kofta dipped in thick tomato-onion sauce. I cherished the spinach with sauce or curry. It was accompanied by garlic Naan and Parantha ($5), Tadka Dal ($10) and shrimp as entrées. Simmering dals (lentils) arrived with Dum Biryani, which was topped with cooked flour. These are real treats for rice eaters. Chef Hemant, however, explained that customers shouldn’t confuse his Biryani with Hyderabad style, which is cooked differently.
Assortment of breads was served to please our appetite. From crispy to soft Naans and Parathas, buttery and soft they belonged to different schools of Indian cuisine. Vegetarian dishes had their own strength. Stuffed with figs and nuts they were sparked by green chilies, red chili powder and ginger.
While we ate to our satisfaction Chef Mathur anxiously visited us to ensure quality service. A bowl of pappadam with smell of stale oil was quickly replaced.
His wife, Surbhi Sahni, who is a Pastry chef, provided her signature in dessert dishes. While serving Pistachio Kulfi, Mango Cheese Cake and Shahi Tukda (Rabdi and Almond on roasted bread ($7 each), Chef Mathur acknowledged his wife’s contribution in designing those dishes.
Tulsi
211 East 46th Street,
(Between 2nd & 3rd Avenues),
New York, NY 10017
Tel: (212) 888-0820
www.tulsinyc.com
More photograph available at:
www.desidineout.com
