Tucked among a cluster of restaurants around 2nd Avenue and 6th Street in the neighborhood of Cooper Union in Manhattan, ‘Malai Mar Ke’ is an interesting addition. Most of the restaurants offering Indian food in the area claim to feed you without making a hole in your pocket. The name ‘Malai Mar Ke’ is directly imported from Iranian teashops in Mumbai, where customers regularly demand creamy milk in their tea.
Malai Mar Ke unpretentiously caters to hungry passers by who are looking for cheap and sumptuous meal rather than a cozy place to relax. Shiva Natarajan, the owner, a veteran claiming to have half a dozen restaurants under his sleeves, teases his customers with things that puzzle while you prepare to eat spicy curries. The most visible among such items that welcome customers are bottle jars you are supposed to use for drinking water.
Natarajan told me that he could supply regular glasses if I didn’t like the jars. He informed that he picked up street names for other restaurants he has opened one after another in Manhattan in the past decade. He opened “Dhaba (28th Street), commonly used for roadside restaurants in India and Chhole (58th Street), Indian counterpart of chickpeas, both of which specialize in North Indian food from Punjab while Chhote Nawab, a respectable Muslim elite in India, serves cuisine from Hyderabad while Bhojan, a ritualistic word for food, serves Gujarati food. Natarajan continued with launching new restaurants, such as, Singapore specializing in Indian style Chinese food and Thelewala, the street food cart owner, which serves Kati Roll and food with flavor from Bengal.
“I am very passionate about Indian food which is varied and rich”, declared Natarajan who began his career as restaurateur in 1995 when he opened ‘Mumbai Times’ in West port, Connecticut. “All my restaurants are run by trusted managers who ensure customers’ satisfaction”, he said.
MMK steals innovative ideas of Indian catering, such as, a see-through kitchen meant to incite customers look through the separated glass in the kitchen where hot meals are prepared with a lot of sizzle and dazzle. Chef Kirti Pant and Riaz present the food ordered by customers, which is served by manager Narendra Kumar and his ever-smiling associate Roshan Balan. The duo are multi-taskers, who take charge of customers as soon as they enter the restaurants and continue checking their needs until they are ready to leave.
In order to maintain the competitiveness MMK offers beer and wine. “Do you face stiff competition from so many restaurants in the neighborhood serving Indian food”, I asked Natarajan, who answered in a carefree style, “I mind my own business”, he replied. “Innovation and imagination are my strength which is hard to beat. “I offer lunch special for $7-11 that is so affordable!” he said.
Chef Pant told me that he uses Indian herbs liberally to make the dishes pungent in taste. “But we can always adjust the spice level to suit individual tastes”, added Natarajan.
Natarajan recommended seafood preparations with Goal flavor. “They are a treat for spice lovers”, he said. He kept his promise with Fish Ambotik ($20), prepared in spicy hot and sour tamarind curry and Chicken Xacuti ($14), cooked with roasted coconut, peanuts and poppy seeds.
MMK offers a wide range of appetizers, such as, Chicken Achari ($7), marinated in pickling spices, Patiala Lamb Kabab ($9), pan grilled lamb pattis, Kachumbar Aloo ($5), tangy cucumber and potatoes tossed with peanuts, tomatoes and onions and Chili Chicken ($8), a perennial Indian-Chinese favorite cooked with soy sauce, green chili and garlic.
Natarajan reminds you not to miss one of his main course chicken dishes, Malai Marke Murgh ($16), chicken roasted in ghee flavored creamy sauce, Chicken Tikka Masala ($16), roasted chicken in a creamy tomato sauce or Lamb Pasanda ($17), lamb with creamy almond sauce.
Most of the vegetarian dishes at MMK are priced between $12 and $14 while Chicken and other non-vegetarian entrees are priced between $14 and $19. The Tandoor fired Naan breads are $3.50 to $4 each and desserts cost $5.
While scanning at the menu I noticed an announcement unrelated with food but essential for those interested in Indian spirituality. A photo of smiling Swami Sivananda was printed in a corner of the menu card with his brief introduction and an advisory about Sivananda Ashrams. I knew Natarajan’s interests go much beyond serving Indian food to New Yorkers.
On my way out Natarajan proudly informed me, “I will soon open a small take-out place in Manhattan. It will be called Patiala, named after a town in Punjab.”
Malai Marke, 318 E 6th street, New York, NY 10003
Phone/Fax: 212-555-5555 www.malaimarke.com
www.desidineout.com
